Does Bosnia Have Anything to Recommend It?

My friend Christine, who is an admitted stay-at-home, asked in an email just what I found so facinating about these weird places I go to live and work in. Actually, she wrote: "I knew a guy in chicago once, a teacher, who spent a summer as part of some kind of program training bosnian teachers in sarajevo. he said everybody there smokes like a fiend and drinks the strongest coffee he has ever tasted, and he spent most of his time dodging land mines. this was probably '97 or '98. there were bullet holes in the wall of the holiday inn he stayed at. i think i will go to key west instead.

I've been thinking about this question because Bosnia has this odd pull. You keep meeting people who will tell you they came here intending to stay 6 months and here they are 5 years later, 7 years later. It has an odd pull and attraction. But you sound so naive when you talk about this. It is far from a perfect place.

The people are part of the pull. They are, in the perfect description of my friend Eddie, exactly like Italians -- but without the sunny attitude. Bosnians are dark sardonic Italians. They are family-loving, food-crazy, sociable, funny people who believe absolutely that life will get you, so watch out. Talking about a story in the office the other day I said out loud, "Everyone is doing bad things. We need a good guy here." Dino, our interpreter, stopped work for a minute and in his own voice said -- "Hah, you are in the wrong country then." Anything goes wrong, and people shrug and tell you, "This is normal here."

The place itself is beautiful with craggy mountains in one place and deep lakes in others. Even in the rain and under a blanket of litter the racing streams, and green hills, the herds of sheep and snow-frosted pine trees, the red-tiled houses, well, I could write those travel brochures for this place. Walking in the hills the other day we looked down on a huge cemetery from the war, mostly white with stones for the Muslim dead but tatted with black stones for Croat and Serb dead and I hit again with how beautiful -- and tragic -- the place is. People are differentiated even in death.

The atmosphere of the place is catchy: The cafes, the strolls along the river, the family dinners, the weekend excursions to the zoo. You see loads of families getting off the tram near the zoo all carrying bottles of soda and bags of sandwiches.

Finally, the last arguement for Bosnia I'll let Bud and Mary Johnson, my friends and travel tour experts, make. Bud is looking into the possibility of a group tour to the Balkans in the fall. Its long and troubled history and scenery untouched by polluting industry (there is little) or population (out-migration after the war) makes for great tourism. So long as you obey the "Danger Mines" signs. Here's a sample from a Canadian tour operator:

Scenic Bosnia, Croatia & Slovenia
DURATION: 12 DAYS ESCORTED/10 NIGHTS• Sarajevo • Dubrovnik • Split • Trogir • Zadar • Plitvice Lakes • Opatija • Postojna • Bled • Ljubljana • Zagreb

Wednesday, Day 1 Toronto/European Gateway Evening departure by scheduled overnight transatlantic jet flight to a European gateway. Inflight meals will be served.

Thursday, Day 2 European Gateway/Sarajevo Arrival in a European gateway. Change planes and continue by scheduled air service for Sarajevo. You will be met and transferred to your hotel. The balance of the day is free. Welcome dinner and overnight. GRAND HOTEL 2 NIGHTS. D

Friday, Day 3 Sarajevo Sarajevo, site of the 1984 Winter Olympics and capital city of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina has been influenced over the years by a number of cultures and civilizations. Your city tour will take you to visit the picturesque Turkish Bazaar "Bas Carsija", surrounded by some forty small streets each named after the specific craft that was once practiced in them. Bascarsija houses Sarajevo's main Ottoman era sights. Next is the Husref Bay Mosque, a magnificent mosque located in the heart of Bascarsija and the most important Islamic building in Bosnia. Also see the Olympic Stadium shelled repeatedly during the war and the Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum. The afternoon is free for further optional visits.

Saturday, Day 4 Sarajevo/Mostar/Dubrovnik A delightful drive this morning through the marvellous gorge of the River Neretva takes us to Mostar to see the remains of the Turkish Quarter and the recently reconstructed 16th century single arched stone bridge. From here we cross into Croatia and continue on to Dubrovnik, where the beautiful Dalmatians meet the Adriatic. ARGOSY HOTEL 2 NIGHTS. B/D

Sunday, Day 5 Dubrovnik Your walking tour of Dubrovnik is like stepping back in time. See the Rector's Palace with its priceless artifacts, the Bell Tower Clock, Orlando's Column built by Antonio Ragusino in 1418 and the Sponza Palace with its elegantly sculpted Renaissance loggia on the ground floor. You will also see the Dominican Monastery dating from 1315 and the Franciscan Monastery dating from 1317 housing one of the world's oldest pharmacies. The rest of the day is free. Since the roads and streets in Dubrovnik are quite narrow, walking is the primary mode of transportation. Make sure to pack good walking shoes! B

Monday, Day 6 Dubrovnik/Split Heading out of Dubrovnik this morning we travel north along the spectacular Adriatic Coast past old fishing villages and new resorts en route to Split, the largest town on the Dalmatian Coast. On arrival enjoy a sightseeing tour that features the historic inner city built around Roman Emperor Diocletian's Palace, now declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. See the remnants of Split's Roman heritage, it's Renaissance and Gothic structures including Jupiter's Temple, the Peristyle and the Cathedral. MARJAN HOTEL 1 NIGHT B/D

Tuesday, Day 7 Split/Trogir/Zadar/Plitvice Lakes Travelling north along the coast this morning we come to Trogir, a center of artistic activities, where scholars from around the world gather to study and paint. Next is Zadar, the oldest Slavic city on the Adriatic, once a famed cultural center. We pause for an orientation tour that includes the ruins of the Roman Forum, the Cathedral and St. Donat Church. Turning inland we travel to the beautiful Plitvice Lakes National Park. HOTEL JEZERO 2 NIGHTS. B/D

Wednesday, Day 8 Plitvice Lakes Have your cameras ready as we have a full day to explore and enjoy the breathtaking scenery of this natural wonder listed in the UNESCO World Heritage list, where you will find 16 terraced lakes surrounded by thickly wooded mountains and lush vegetation. The primeval forests that surround them are fragrant with evergreens. In the morning there is a walking tour around several of the lower lakes. The rest of the day is free to enjoy this scenic wonderland. B/D

Thursday, Day 9 PLITVICE Lakes/Opatija, Postojna/Bled Returning to the coast we come to the beautiful Bay of Kvarner and its popular resort, Opatija located at the foot of Mount Ucka. It's streets still maintaining a 19th century air. Heading north we drive to Postojna, home of the largest caves in Europe to tour this fantastic subterranean world by miniature electric train. Here in the towering chambers of limestone, the dripping water has formed mysterious shapes in stalactites and stalagmites. Afterwards our journey continues to the mountain resort of Bled sitting in a valley surrounded by the snow-capped Julian Alps. HOTEL PARK/GOLF 2 NIGHTS. B/D

Friday, Day 10 Bled A morning sightseeing tour of this lake resort will feature Bled Castle situated on a cliff high above the lake offering a magnificent view. The balance of the day is free. Perhaps to visit the old church on a small island in the middle of the lake or to take a ride around the lake in a traditional Fijaker. B

Saturday, Day 11 Bled/Ljubljana/Zagreb The last day of our tour begins with a visit to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, to visit the open air market, the City Hall, Robba's Fountain, the Three Bridges and the Parliament. Then it's on to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, where the Upper and Lower Towns are protected as national monuments. Your sightseeing tour upon arrival will take you along the historic Upper Town to see St. Mark's Church, St. Catherine's Church, the Cathedral, the Parliament and the Government Palace. SHERATON HOTEL 1 NIGHT. B/D

Sunday, Day 12 Zagreb/European Gateway/Toronto After breakfast drive to the airport for departure.