Getting a buzz on

Muslims are not allowed to drink alcohol.

That does not mean there is no alcohol in this Islamic capital. There's a wine store near the bunker filled with lovely French wines. There's a bar close by too. It's not marked and it looks all boarded up and empty except for the red light barely visible through a crack.

Restaurants cannot serve alcohol but foreigners can get it. You call ahead for a reservation and then when you are seated the waiter brings you a water pitcher of red wine. Ah, Don said, when it arrived at our table, the other night...

Impure water.