Ingenuity

We filled two water bottles with vodka and Compari to bring in our backpack and every night after dark we had a cocktail without bothering our Taureg guides, who are Muslims who consider alcohol sinful. We thought we were so cute.

Until NuNu told us about the "special" water the tourists all bring into the desert. And the Italians who always pack cases of wine. Is that a problem for you as a Muslim, Hawley asked diffidently? No problem, he assured her. Still, we didn't flaunt it.

Then came a time when the Compari was gone and we had no mixers. Hawley proved what an ingenious traveler she is. She fixed her citrusy-flavered vitamins in water and we had vodka and vitamin cocktails.

Delicious and healthful too.