Making Arabs smile

I have discovered a sure-fire way to light up the face of friends and shop-keepers here. I just say "Saha Ftourek."

It means basically Have a lovely meal! and refers to the sunset dinner that breaks fast. This greeting replaces the usual good bye or see you! during Ramadan. But to hear the greeting come from the lips of a non-Moslim, non Arabic-speaking person is apparently so startling that even grumpy merchants who have begrudgingly tried to discern our wishes through pointing and trial and error can't help from smile and answer back.

It has become my best trick.