It's hard to see the lineage from the "fierce rude" people of the 800-1200s who rolled over Iceland, Sweden and England in the current residents of Copenhagen who were unfailingly polite and mild. As I sat in the airport just after landing fumbling with a map written in Danish, a young woman asked if she could help and made suggestions of what I should go see. This was a pattern that repeated itself throughout the trip. At the same time we were touring forts and defenses set up along the Swedish coast a

gainst the wild men of Denmark, we were also interacting with these tolerant, self-effacing -- and unfailingly fit city dwellers.
My favorite sign of this modesty was the huge ad for
Carlsberg Beer on the side of a building near City Hall. proclaiming: "Probably the best beer in town."
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